Tough fishing conditions
Hard Blow the day before (WIND)
Fish only hitting on very long leads
Cold water
Early season
Pre staging
Sunny
Away from the pack
In a pack, simply, if you fish in a pack, expect to lose your lead core
Late season when the fish are staging & aggressive.
Brands: Kerplunk (personal preference)
Cabelas
Mason (also come in a complete kit with backing/leader material already attached)
Size: 17lb, 27lb, 36lb, 45lb, recommend use of 27lb minimum
Weight: There is a difference, Ranked heaviest to lightest, refer to “Brands”
Colors: Lead Core colored every 30 ft, full core = 300 ft = 10 colors (2 core colored every 60 ft = 600 ft)
Depth: Full core should run at maximum 50 ft deep at 2.0 mph
Each color of a full core should run 5 ft deep at 2.0 mph
Rod setup; Full Core; 330 Penn GTI (or reel with similar capacity), Eagle Claw 10ft medium action (soft dipsy rod works also)
NOTE: Some prefer to use a roller tip/twilli tip on their lead core rods
7 Color Core or less: 45 series Daiwa, Okuma (doesn’t need to be line counter, 30 series for say 2-3 colors), Rod; Okuma Classic, Shimano TDR 7’ –9’ length, medium action
Backing: 150-225 yds of monofilament or super line
If using super line, use fishing knot glue to stiffen 6”-8” connecting end of super line
Leader: Flouro-carbon, prefer within a few lb rating (e.g. line diameter) of Lead Core
Full core lead length 50-75 ft
½ core lead length 25-40 ft
Reference Chinese Handcuff’s, “Willis Knot” on how to attach on Page 2
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Lead core has one problem in that you really cannot run just a portion of the lead core out and let it ride on the tip as the nylon sheath of the lead core is sensitive to abrasion. It is always best to run all the lead core out, because if you don’t, the first hard strike you get & pop, there goes all your lead core, lure, & fish! The same can be said for when using in-line planer boards, it is best not to attach the clip of the board to the lead core line as it will certainly abrade the outer nylon sheath on the lead core, & since in-line boards, especially the big ones cost over $20, this could be a $40 mistake!
Off to the side & away
NOTE: When running multiples on same side, run lightest farthest out, e.g 2-3 colors, then 5 –10 colors inside, so that just like when trolling for walleye, the line can go back & across the other lines with less chance of tangling up. Reference Page 7 A, B
Better grip on clips, loop line around fingers several times & place loops in clip pads
Church’s walleye board Reference page 4 A,
Offshore Tackle
Yellowbird
Modify to hold in place by using offshore clip or half hitch a rubber band around the line & placing inside the pin say on a Churches in-line board (prevent board from sliding onto fish & knocking them off. Reference page 4 B
A speed bead 5-6 ft above the lure will accomplish the same thing
Some people attach the in-line planer board right in front of the leadcore, but I know this doesn’t allow the leadcore to go to its maximum depth. I always at a minimum place the board on the backing at least the same amount of distance as I expect it to reach. E.G. I expect a full core to reach about 50-55 ft deep so I set the board at least 50 ft from the leadcore on the backing. Reference Page 4 C
Run on outside riggers
Control depth (remember lead will run below depth of downrigger ball!)
Use of 2-3 colors
Note: when running this rig of the outside rigger, it is best if you do not run a dipsey rod on the same side (tangle waiting to happen).
Long line it out the back, really good time and place to run a full core with an 8 ounce clip weight
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If you wished to shorten distance behind the boat for better control, use a Clip weight added after 2 to 3 colors are out (this will not harm the lead core as there is no force rubbing against the outer nylon sheath) using an Off Shore OR-16 Clip or Elberta Clipper. Reference page 6 C
Note: When letting out lead core, especially with a clip weight on it, thumb the spool to slowly let the clip weight swing back behind the riggers & other lure already out, other wise it is guaranteed to tangle up!
The amount of weight used can vary from 1 ounce to 1 lb. I personally never use more than 8 ounces & only run the clip weights on my 5 color to full core rigs. The approximate additional depth that you can expect to achieve by adding weight is listed below.
4 ounce = ¼ core (2.5 colors) an additional 12-15ft at 2.5 mph surface speed
8 ounce = ½ core (5 colors) an additional 20-25ft at 2.5 mph surface speed
16 ounce = 1 core (10 colors) an additional 40-50 ft at 2.5 mph surface speed
You can also use an egg sinker & speed bead (Legendary Products has them or check with Capt Chucks in Ludington, MI), preferably 4-8 ounce weights for running on planer boards (steelhead setup)
Match the hatch, when do alewife spawn (May)
J-Plug (red headed bullet)
Small orange hootchie & jawbreaker # 2 (steel head)
Large hootchie & fly/squid
Magnum spoon
Mini disk & lemon/lime dolphin spoon
When running Lead Core & fishing is slow, change up speeds or track s-curve.
Inside of turn triggers a hit, then slow-up presentations (imagine the lure fluttering down imitating wounded baitfish)
If outside of turn triggers a hit, speed up presentations
Good Luck & Tight Lines!
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